By R. W. Apple
Far Flung and good Fed is a vintage number of nutrition writing— full of life, hot and wealthy with a feeling of position and taste—and merits to hitch the works of A.J. Liebling, Elizabeth David, M.F.K. Fisher and Calvin Trillin at the bookshelf.
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Extra resources for Far Flung and Well Fed: The Food Writing of R.W. Apple, Jr.
They like seppioline, or child cuttlefish, born within the lagoon, now not within the open sea. between crabs, they've got one note for men, one other for ladies. We bad Anglophones need to make do with “she-crabs. ” At Al Covo, Mr. Benelli and his peppy, throaty spouse, Diane, who grew up in Lubbock, Tex. , serve loads of their fish raw—the well-known neighborhood sea bass, branzino, professional with coarse salt and spider-crab roe; jumbo sea scallops of their shells; and small scampi, unbelievably creamy and ethereally candy. The uncooked langoustines that Joël Robuchon serves in Paris and David Pasternack’s uncooked fluke at Esca in long island are possibly larger professional, at the least to my flavor, yet there's no doubt that Al Covo’s uncooked fabrics take first prize. “When fish is that this clean and this good,” Mr. Benelli advised us in the course of dinner, “it turns into the protagonist. the fewer the chef does to it, the higher it will likely be. ” With that philosophy in brain, he serves crabmeat cool, combined with its coral and parsley, on a mattress of microscopic leaves—“24-hour lettuces,” as he calls them—allowing the beautiful, low-key notes of the spider crab’s style to be preferred to the whole, with no distraction from the drums and trumpets of strident sauces. Razor clams, no greater than a pinkie, are flipped, flipped and flipped back on a flat grill, to maintain them wet. And rosy gamberetti are mixed with white polenta and fruity, enormously peppery olive oil to provide an elegantly confined model of Charleston’s creamy shrimp and grits. The day after our most modern stopover at to the Benellis, my spouse, Betsey, and that i controlled to squeeze 3 small food right into a unmarried day, and every of these additionally exemplified, in its method, the Venetian present for encouraged simplicity. At lunch on the luxurious lodge Cipriani, I requested even if i'll have turbot, my favourite fish, yet with no all of the difficult furbelows proposed by way of the menu. yet after all, sir; out got here numerous fish scaloppine, sautéed not more than a second or , their lusciousness well lower through the bitterness of grilled radicchio. At Alle Testiere that night, we had time just for a number of cicheti, or snacks, with our preprandial slurps of white wine. There are just 10 tables, commonly for 2, jammed into its unmarried tiny room, and we needed to make means for severe diners to stick to, yet Luca Di Vita, one of many companions, ferried plates to our desk so rapidly that we controlled to style numerous scrumptious tidbits, together with gnocchi with tenderissimo child squid, octopus salad enlivened with apple and clams with ginger (a throwback to the times whilst Venice traded with the Orient, just like the extra standard sweet-and-sour pesce en saor). Mascaron, a bare-bones, cash-only osteria with paper napkins, thronged even in off-season, served us a raft of vegetable antipasti and well-grilled sole and orata (the gold-spotted bream that was once sacred to Aphrodite). however the highlights have been the Rabelaisian humor of Gigi Vianello, one of many owners, and the steaming, copious plates of spaghetti with clams.