SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine

By Shelley Lindgren, Matthew Accarrino, Kate Leahy

A cookbook and wine advisor celebrating the local traditions and intriguing recommendations of recent Italian cooking, from San Francisco's SPQR restaurant.

The Roman Empire used to be well-known for its community of roads. by way of following the trail of those thoroughfares, Shelley Lindgren, wine director and co-owner of the acclaimed San Francisco eating places A16 and SPQR, and govt chef of SPQR, Matthew Accarrino, discover significant and northern Italy’s neighborhood cuisines and artisanal wines.
 
Throughout all the 8 featured areas, Accarrino deals not just a contemporary model of Italian cooking, but additionally his personal tackle those continuously evolving neighborhood specialties. Recipes like Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled greens and highly spiced Mayonnaise and Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta are increased and considerate, reflecting Accarrino’s wide wisdom of conventional Italian foodstuff, but in addition his specialize in precision and technique.  as well as recipes, Accarrino elucidates easy kitchen abilities like small animal butchery and pasta making, in addition to more recent ideas like sous vide—all of that are prodigiously illustrated with step by step photos.
 
Shelley Lindgren’s uniquely knowledgeable essays at the wines and winemakers of every zone display the main attention-grabbing Italian wines, highlighting ignored and little-known grapes and producers—and explaining how each one displays the region’s specified background, cultural impacts, weather, and terrain. Lindgren, one of many optimal specialists on Italian wine, stocks her deep and exceptional wisdom of Italian wine and winemakers via manufacturer profiles, wine suggestions, and private observations, making this an important addition to any wine-lover’s library.
 
Brimming with either discovery and tradition, SPQR delivers the simplest of contemporary Italian foodstuff rooted within the areas, flavors, and background of Italy.

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Asti is well the largest-producing DOCG in Piemonte. Comprising usually Moscato Canelli grapes, Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti are the area’s best-selling sparklers, starting from dry and off-dry to very candy. the easiest models are delightfully clean, with tangy apricot and peach notes. After an afternoon of tasting via Barolo or Barbaresco or consuming a wealthy piemontese meal, a tumbler of spumante may be the precise palate refresher. los angeles Spinetta first produced its clean but honeyed Moscato d’Asti Bricco Quaglia—the region’s first cru Moscato—in 1977. extra lately l. a. Spinetta got Contratto, Piemonte’s oldest manufacturer of classic-method gleaming wines. With the ancient estate in Canelli now owned through the forward-thinking Rivetti kin, might be we’re in for an additional tale of what used to be previous is new back in Italian wine. —SL MOSCATO Grown in Greece, Italy, France, and much past, Moscato (Muscat) could be the unique wine grapevine with probably the most assorted family members timber within the Vitis vinifera species. whereas it truly is in general referred to as a white grape, it additionally grows pink or black, occasionally at the related vine. As for the types of wine that the grape produces, these too are probably endless—from dry to candy, nonetheless to glowing. Golden-hued Moscato Bianco, referred to as Moscato Canelli in Piemonte, is likely one of the such a lot floral and fragrant subvarieties of Moscato grown in Italy. it truly is the most planted grapes in Piemonte, the place it really is grown greatly for gleaming Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti, bubbling, evenly candy, low alcohol wines that may be ideal refreshers after a wealthy Piemontese meal. With its floral aromas and palate-cleansing bubbles, Asti presents a very good fit for goat cheese and fruit cakes. Moscato additionally grows everywhere Italy, from Lazio, the place jasmine-inflected Moscato di Terracina pairs good with seafood eaten alongside the Tyrhennian coast to Trentino–Alto Adige, the place Moscato Rosa (Rosenmuskateller) yields a rosy, rose-scented nonetheless wine. in the meantime, Moscato Giallo is a fine quality, golden Moscato subvariety that grows in Trentino–Alto Adige and Friuli. It has additionally taken to the Colli Euganei hills close to Padua in Veneto, the place it's utilized in Fior d’Arancio, a wine redolent of orange blossoms. MOSCATO manufacturers • Piemonte: Paolo Saracco, los angeles Spinetta, Braida, l. a. Morandina, Tre Donne, Bava, Traversa, Massolino, l. a. Crotta di Vegneron, Il Falchetto • Veneto: l. a. Montecchia • Trentino-Alto Adige: Alois Lageder, Zeni • Valle d’Aosta: los angeles Crotta di Vegneron • Le Marche: Montecappone • Umbria: Barberani • Lazio: Cantine Sant’Andrea, Villa Gianna White Grapes ARNEIS as soon as used more often than not as a mixing grape to chop Nebbiolo’s depth, Arneis got here into its personal a few many years in the past to turn into certainly one of Piemonte’s such a lot recognizable white grapes. Arneis capacity “little rascal” within the Piemontese dialect, an appropriate identify given the vine’s tendency to be ornery and hard to domesticate. through the Seventies, few manufacturers grew the low-acid grape, which produced low yields within the winery, attracted mould, and oxidized simply.

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